How To Tell If A Taco Zone Valve Is Bad

Which TACO Zone Valve?

Is it the old "Gold" caput (or real old "Green Heads) or the new ESP Black head?

It is typically if you have 24 volts to the head and the valve does not open the head is bad. In that location is an adjustment that tin exist fabricated to the erstwhile "Gold"/Green" heads but TACO does not like you to do that.On the former heads with the thermostat calling go beyond terminals i and two y'all should read 24 volts. If not then trouble is external (non the zone valve) If you lot have 24 volts the head should smell like it is burning, and it should get hot. If you accept 24 volts and the head is hot and nothing happens then spring out two and iii if the equipment comes on the the end switch is not making in the head and you demand a new head.

I will wait to hear from you every bit to it being the ESP valve.

TACO ESP

We have replaced a couple of heads on a chore that had 26 ESP Valves on it. When it was all done and said information technology turned out that the valve head was fine. When you solder the body brand certain that the ball valve is completely open otherwise solder might run into the brawl cavity and prevent the valve from endmost or opening completely.

Good Luck,

Justin

TACO ESP

there is now also a version 2 which has supposodly solved all of their previous problems with version i.

Couldn't you also take a continuity test across 2 and 3?If you accept 24 volts,and no continuity,then the valve caput is bad.Or if you have no continuity across 1 and 2 then the head is bad.

Taco gilded

Sorry,
I was referring to the gold serial.Thanx for your responses.
Gary from Granville

Good Afternoon
You lot can field test a Taco zonevalve, past measuring the voltage at terminals 1 & 2. If you lot take 24 volts, the valve should feel warm and you should feel migration of heat. Later on approx. 1 1/ii min, yous should have continuity at terminals Two, and Three. Additionally, for your convenience I accept attached a problem shooting guide. Please suggest, if you require additional assistance.
Joe Mattiello

Joe Mattiello
Technical Services
(401)942-8000 ext.484
Fax (401) 942-2360
[e-mail protected]

My Favorite test for Taco zone valves.

Want to know if the valve has failed? The easiest style is to disconnect the #1 wire for a couple minutes, twist the valve head off of the body and shake it while holding it over your mitt. If you lot find a bunch of brown pelletts coming out of the slots in the head, the valve head HAS FAILED. What could be more simple?

The dark-brown pelletts are the "driving device" of the valve, that have leaked out of the failed actuator. Give it a attempt. Ever try the voltage test showtime but when y'all observe information technology there, give my test a try, then replace the caput. Chris

Taco Zone Valves

Turn t-stat up. Cheque for 24 VAC across terminals 1&two. If in that location is ability there, wait a few minutes. Feel the manual open lever on the head. The resistance to you moving it should decrease every bit the valve opens, until the lever goes upwardly and down hands, when valve is fully open. At this point you should brainstorm to go circulation of hot water. If the lever continues to be resistive to movement, the head is probably bad. Very seldom does the valve itself fail.Terminals 2&3 are the cease switch to bring on the burner or relay.When the valve is open, these contacts should be closed. This would testify every bit 0 volts across Term 2&3. If valve is open and these contacts remain open, then the internal micro switch is bad. Supercede valve operator head.

Taco Zone valve

My experience with Taco zone valves is that the body on the inside is susceptible to rust which prevents the head from performance correctly. The head will exam correctly, however, the valve position will not change. I take used the prescribed antifreeze in the organization that helps to prevent rust and add a chip of lubrication, notwithstanding, even that is not 100% effective.

I take a 5 zone system and will need to modify at lease 3 of the valve bodies in preparation for the coming winter. Every year I take problems with at least one of the valve. I am thinking of changing them out for another brand, withal, I am not sure what is a amend brand.

I am having a trouble with my heating system that my furnace guy has not resolved. We accept 4 zones in the forced hot water organization. In one of the zones when the temperature set up on the thermostat has been reached, instead of shutting off the furnace goes off and then back on and repeats this cycle rapidly equally many equally five or six times earlier finally staying off. My furnace technician says replace the Taco valve. However, in testing this valve (as instructed on this blog) it seems to be working fine. To me it seems like an electric trouble - the boiler getting a signal to shut down, then restart, then shut down ... over and over. Looking for whatsoever tips to assist diagnose this.

could be the control, but sounds like a ability head to me, especially if it is just one zone that is doing it

Well, here's some other thing. The valve plunger is sticking. Spray the head and trunk with Kroil or WD 40. After taking the #1 wire off for 2 minutes as a minimum, take a big pair of water pump pliers and put one jaw on the bottom and the other on the plunger where information technology sticks through the valve. Squeeze the pliars to operate the valve. Exist sure that it works freely. It well-nigh e'er does. Then, look at the black steel plate that holds the valve piston in place. The stop goes up through a hole. If any moisture gets on there, it will crusade the piston to bind in the hole. That's what the Kroil is for. Get the hole clean and broth it with Never-Seize. Be sure that you spray the bypass lever within the ability head do it is lubricated on the cam information technology rides on. When done, yous can operate the valve with your little finger.

When that hole gets restricted, it causes enough resistance to overcome the return jump and if the piston stops in just the correct place, it volition cycle on and off. Sometimes, it sticks and it never breaks the contact between #ii and #iii. Giving you an overheat call.

I always sprayed those heads when I was near them because if they get tight in the hole with rust, the additional pressure required to overcome the rust will blow the power head. And I've installed hundreds of them.

How To Tell If A Taco Zone Valve Is Bad

Taco zone valve

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